Living his dream
Summer 2024 California Bountiful magazine
Chef savors career, family and backyard grilling
Story by Barbara Arciero
Photos by Paige Green
When he’s cooking in his Santa Rosa backyard, chef Mark Stark equates “grill” with “chill.”
“It’s fun,” he says. “You’re outside. It’s good weather. You’ve got a cocktail. What’s not fun about that?”
He asserts that grilling is the easiest way to savor the freshness of the season’s bounty.
“I don’t think cooking should be this elaborate expenditure of energy,” he says. “If the ingredient is already quality—you know, farm-fresh, seasonal—then you don’t want to do a whole lot to it. Let the product shine.”
That’s what he’s been doing throughout his career—a career sparked by a stint as a dishwasher in a Washington, D.C., restaurant. Today, he and his wife, Terri, own and operate eight of Sonoma County’s most highly rated restaurants. From Willi’s Wine Bar (a roadhouse featuring small plates) to Augie’s French (a classic French bistro), each boasts a distinct cuisine.
All, however, share a similar vibe.
“We have a kind of family atmosphere,” says Stark, who employs about 500 people he affectionately calls his kids. He notes that when he and his wife opened their first restaurant more than 20 years ago, they set out to treat their employees differently than they’d been treated.
“We were one of the first restaurants to offer health insurance and dental insurance right from the get-go, which was costly,” he says. “But we wanted to show the commitment to who’s going to help us live our dream. You can’t just be looking out for yourself.”
Many are long-term employees.
“The coolest thing is to see them, people that started out with us on day one, now have their own houses. They’re married. They have kids,” Stark says. “That’s super cool. I mean, that’s the reward right there.”
- Grilled summer squash
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This is a great side dish to any grilled meat or fish. The spiced yogurt is flavored with za’atar, a Middle Eastern blend of dried herbs and sesame seeds.
- Grilled Brentwood corn on the cob
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This is chef Mark Stark’s version of elote, the classic Mexican street food of grilled corn on the cob. “During the summer months, we are lucky to have local corn from Brentwood—some of the best eating corn in the country.”
- Local cremini mushroom salad
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“This salad is all about the freshness of the mushrooms,” chef Mark Stark says. Because the salad is assembled right before serving, it’s important to prepare all the ingredients beforehand.
- Heirloom tomato and Cambozola 'mac and cheese'
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Here’s a summertime dilemma: what to do with those extra heirloom tomatoes. Chef Mark Stark provides a delicious solution. It’s not a true baked macaroni and cheese, he says, “but just as tasty and much quicker.”
- Seared jumbo scallops
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This is a popular dish from Bravas Bar de Tapas, chef Mark Stark’s Spanish restaurant. Any fish can be substituted for the scallops.
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