It takes two

July/August 2023 California Bountiful magazine

Farmer Megan Strom grows many of the ingredients her husband, chef Juan Gonzales, uses on his menu. Photo: © 2023 David Poller

Farmer and chef are partners in business and in life

Story by Barbara Arciero
Photos by David Poller

As a chef at a hyper-seasonal restaurant in Los Angeles, Juan Gonzales prioritized relationships with the local farmers who provided his ingredients—so much so that he married one of them.

“I really appreciated her produce because of the quality. It was next level,” Gonzales says, recalling the beets, arugula, chard, spinach, melons and other produce his now-wife Megan Strom grew in the Coachella Valley.

Today, the couple lives and works together in San Diego County. Their business, Mesa Agricola—which translates as “agricultural table” in Spanish—includes a quarter-acre farm and a five-day-a-week kitchen residency at the Little Thief wine bar in San Diego. In August, their residency moves to Vino Carta in Solano Beach.

Gonzales describes their cuisine as ingredient-driven with global influences.

“I just celebrate all the cultures that I’m interested in and put them in a dish,” he says with a mixture of humor and humility.

Both Gonzales and Strom have backgrounds in food service. Gonzales grew up in Baja California, Mexico, and was inspired in his career choice by his grandmothers, who were cooks. He is primarily self-taught. A native of Minnesota, Strom went to culinary school but ended up farming through “a happy accident.”

The couple collaborates on what crops Strom will plant at their farm in Valley Center, “focusing on things that we’re not seeing anyone else growing so that he can have really unique varieties on his menu,” she says.

Their collaboration, both say, satisfies on multiple levels.

“We open up our hearts to the people that we have as guests,” Gonzales says. “I really love seeing Megan when she talks to the people and have them experience what we are creating, because we really are passionate about all these things.”

Barbara Arciero

Stone fruit mole: Mole is the national dish of Mexico and it varies widely from state to state. Oaxaca has seven well-known types that are considered the foundation of the state’s cuisine. This preparation is a Oaxacan Manchamantel mole (that literally translates to “tablecloth stainer”). While it may be common to think of mole as a sauce, this mole is the dish itself and can be served on its own or with any variety of meat or vegetables (including confit summer squash).

Fish kebabs: These kebabs should be made with a fish that has firm, white flesh. Vermilion rockfish, halibut, yellowtail snapper or red snapper all work well. Once you add this to your grilling repertoire, it may just become a family favorite!

Melon and cucumber salad: This salad is an easy way to celebrate some of California’s best summer produce without having to turn on your oven or stove. It is a perfect first course, guaranteed to delight with all the fresh flavors of summer.

Melon seed agua fresca: Most of us are used to discarding melon seeds, but it’s surprisingly easy to put them to good use. This summer beverage is not only refreshing, but the addition of melon seeds also makes it packed full of nutritional benefits—including significant amounts of protein.

Grilled peaches with whipped cream and masa crumble: Elevate your peaches and cream by topping it with masa crumble. This addition gives you another layer of texture, and the earthy flavor helps balance the sweetness of the fruit and whipped cream. Alternately, feel free to serve the peaches and cream as is!

Confit summer squash: This summer squash preparation can be served warm or cold, on its own or with a side of toast. “We love it warm with our stone fruit mole,” Megan Strom says. On a dinner plate, add about a half cup of the mole, place the confit squash over the mole and garnish with thinly sliced onion and fresh lime juice to taste. Serve with warm tortillas.